“Classic Caribbean Cruising... Classic Caribbean Rum!”
This year’s 3rd edition of the Caribbean “Classic Rum Cruise” became an informal affair with 3 yachts and 6 friends heading off in company on this annual pilgrimage to the Caribbean Rum Distilleries of Marie Galante, Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia.
The fleet this year were Rum Cruise leaders Brian & Pippa of miramarsailing.com on their yacht “Miramar”, a 40 ft Beneteau 400, Stuart & Helen on “Iguana”, a 44ft Jeanneau Sun Magic, and Charlie and Maureen on “Revenge”, a 44ft Islander.
For “Miramar”, the very first incident occurred before she had even left English Harbour! Her diligent skipper, looking for something to do while the tedious job of filling the water tanks was in progress, decided to exercise a few sea cocks. This was definitely a case of “wrong place, wrong time” as he successfully persuaded the lever from the forward heads discharge valve to part company with it’s host to leave the valve semi closed for the rest of the cruise.
Undaunted, the fleet topped tanks and set sail south for Guadeloupe arriving just under 6 hours later in the superb anchorage of Deshais on the North West corner of the island. At the evening sun downer congregation all agreed it had been a great day sailing to kick off the cruise. Dinner was taken ashore at “Le Coin de Poisson” located at the northern end of Main Street and a great 1st day was closed.
The following day was a simple hop down to Pigeon Island for some snorkelling and chillin’. The evening was spent ashore in search of an open bar, a search which became more worrying as it went on. Finally, we came across Chez Loulouse on the beach and persuaded the staff to stay open a little longer and serve us our well earned beers. Eventually, after several refreshers and broken French conversations, the crews and staff were enjoying a convivial dance around the bar to some really smooth Caribbean vibes.
Next stop was Bourg des Saintes on Les Saintes where evening cocktails were taken on the waterfront terrace at Cafe de la Marine, followed by dinner at Restaurant La Fringale just across the street. Both can be recommended. The tough beat to Marie Galante was unanimously agreed to be too much of a slog so we were to continue South.
The following morning we headed off to Portsmouth in Dominica. Just after weighing anchor Charlie came over the VHF, “I have just hooked a huge Barracuda, it looks ugly what do I do with it?” we replied, “cut the line Charlie and let it go” he replied “but this lure cost me $12!”, “well lose a lure or lose a finger Charlie, your choice”. Charlie is now one lure less in his tackle box!
The beautiful island of Dominica with its rain forest and abundance of fresh water streams is a favourite with all. We dallied here for a couple of days as we toured the Northern and Eastern coastlines. The views are breathtaking; the forest a collage of vibrant trees and plants, and all is punctuated by the extremely friendly and welcoming Dominican people. For the first time we ventured along the Indian River as guests of “Big Pappa’s tour guide Andrew, aka “Dede”, in search of the Reef Bar and the infamous cocktail “Dynamite”! We were not disappointed! Way up this enchanting, yet mysterious river with its “Pirates of the Caribbean” pedigree, we found our bar and “the” cocktail. “Dynamite” is well named as you feel the explosion the moment the first drop intermingles with your taste buds. Pippa, a wine drinker and sleeper of some renown, managed 7 of these “interesting” cocktails before enjoying a wonderful nap in Dedes’s pirogue as we set off downstream. Dede delivered us to Big Pappa’s bar on the shore for some “recovery” beers where Big Pappa himself was in awe of this woman that could handle 7 of these stingers. Laughter, respect and kudos filled the air.
From Portsmouth we headed to Salisbury Beach and our favourite beach bar “Chez La Doudou” for more relaxation and our first distillery, The Macoucherie on the “Mango River”. This distillery still uses a huge water paddle to crush the cane grown in the surrounding fields and the history mingles with the cane scent to create an extremely evocative atmosphere. After the traditional blend sampling and purchasing we retired to Chez la Doudou for peaceful evening rum sundowners and our evening meal.
Our next stop was St. Pierre in Martinique and the superb Depaz Distillery. We were looking forward to seeing our great friend Christine Oser, Depaz’s tireless Marketing Director and Chateau curator. Depaz is the “jewel in the crown” of Caribbean rum distilleries with its modern machinery set amid a museum of distillery days gone by and the superbly elegant Chateau Depaz. After the total destruction that resulted from the eruption of Mont Pelee in 1902, the Chateau has been restored among beautiful gardens, with breathtaking views, and Christine is creating an historical masterpiece of furniture, pictures, records and dress of the times to help fund the restoration. Her energy is awesome as is her hospitality and enthusiasm for her role. After a superb lunch in the distilleries restaurant and some excellent rum samples we bad farewell to our friend and made for St. Lucia.
St. Lucia was meant to be the destination for our next distillery. However, such was the informality of the 2010 Rum Cruise that had developed from the total relaxation we were all enjoying, we all agreed on a change of plan. We could all visit the distillery another time, but we might never get the chance to watch England versus Australia in a twenty/20 world cricket final again! On the day of the final a healthy, enthusiastic and extremely partisan crowd gathered in Rodney Bay’s H2O bar and settled in for what turned out to be a superb match with the trophy going England’s way. Beer in abundance celebrated this victory and for once rum was not the focal point!
And so the official end of the 2010 Classic Rum Cruise arrived. We say the “official” end because all 3 yachts had enjoyed such a great time together that we all decided to continue south and on to Grenada. Unfortunately a last minute decision to acquire a spray hood in Bequia, plus forthcoming charter commitments in Antigua, prevented “Miramar” from getting that far but as we say, tomorrow is another day and next year is another Rum Cruise!! Join us, it is great fun!
Report by Brian Turton